I like electrolytic in bakeing soda works well and zero risk. On the other hand if I get a machine in that was in the rain while on the truck I quickly spray everything with coolant direct, unmixed. At one time I used coolant direct but after a while it gets kinda sticky and not easy to clean off. I spray it on, when I need the machine it wipes off easily. It don't mix easy but shaking the hell of of a spray bottle with the stuff in it will eventually get it mixed. Next day it was light brown again! TAL worked better but the Walmart equivalent was cheaper and worked about as good! I also concocted a fluid that works great for storage even it means a week or two. On a rather humid month the table on my mills would turn brown over night, WD made it look good after spraying it, wiping it down and before leaving give the table a spray. I don't use WD 40 for rust or rust protection. I'm thinking a surface rust that's not pitting the surface. I might not be thinking what others say is rust on a precision collet or other surfaces. I did try it on something but been a while, haven't used it since and if my memory is correct I didn't think it worked that good. They do have a rust remover, I have a pint can of it but can't say I like it. I use Kroil, I buy it by the gallon, have a few spray cans too. Maybe the oil is forced into the minute scratches, I don't know, but it works. That cured me of the idea that a person could seriously change even a fairly small surface with the sandpaper and oil.Ī bonus of the sandpaper and oil process is that it simehow seems to give a very good oil coating, that is good at preventing further rust. I needed a couple tenths off over a small areal, maybe 5.16" square (no SG where I was) It took a LONG time to do it. I used abrasive paper to lap in some parts a while back. But if you think about it, leaving aside the issue of "rusty precision", it's really hard to take off even a tenth with fine sandpaper. I know folks tend to think the sandpaper will "destroy any remaining precision". Works fast, no worries of any hydrogen embrittlement. That all said, I often prefer to use a wet-or-dry sandpaper, 400 or 600 grit, with a light oil. You have to admit to yourself that the "precision" went away with the rust in general, so you are not within the original specs anymore just on account of rust. I use phosphoric acid, cold, and have never observed any problem.Īs for material removal, phosphoric and maybe some other choices will fo for the corrosion first. Plus you can bake it out at a reasonably low temp is you are worried. There is a question how much hydrogen embrittlement can happen when the thing is in the cold solution for maybe 15 min. marks up the part and probably removes 4x the amount of material, including good material. Is one more likely to maintain original tolerances using the chemical methods? I was planning on using steel wool to clean the inside of some of the parts (such as sleeves) whilst spinning them up on the work head.ĭoes Evaporust or Grandma's Molasses cause hydrogen embrittlement? If so, are there alternatives to a wire wheel such as a nylon wheel/ scotchbrite wheel, etc.? Will the wire wheel cause the precision ground parts to become out of tolerance/ dimension? I am inclined to use one of the these options: Wire wheel (steel wire), Evaporust or Grandma's Molasses.Īny input on the following questions would be greatly appreciated. Please let me know if this is covered somewhere else. I have read a few posts on derusting but am still undecided as to which are the best methods. Many processes therefore can cause hydrogen embrittlement. Obviously, the collets are hardened and tempered. With reference to 'mild rust', say rust equivalent to the photo on the first page in the below link. Several collets and other bits and pieces have some mild rust on them. I have an old tool and cutter grinder that I am cleaning up.
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